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OBDII![]() If your connector looks like this or you have a 96 and newer GM You have OBDII.
A word on OBDII systems!
The problem with this is OBDII is smarter that us! It knows when codes have been erased! If your light is on and you simply erase the codes and turn off the MIL you will still fail an emissions test. After codes have been cleared the vehicle must be subjected to a "drive cycle" before the PCM will provide a ready status on it's systems. If the system is 'not ready' you fail no questions asked. Also if you drive up and your light is on for any reason, you fail! I know some of you are thinking... 'I'll just yank the bulb out of the dash!'... Guess what!!!! You fail! The light must be operational. Even if the system is in perfect working order and there are no codes or failures and all sensors report ready if the MIL lamp fails to illuminate you fail. Allot of you are starting to think 'this stuff bites' or 'I think I'll just buy an old car and forget all this mess'! Believe me I understand the frustration but these systems are here to stay so if you don't want to end up shelling out the big bucks to repair shops you'll want to pay attention! The connector for OBDII is standardized and ALL 96 and newer vehicles have one with this pin configuration. These codes and plug apply to all makes and models so your Honda or Nissan will be the same.
Some 1994 1/2 and 1995 GM vehicles have the 16-pin connector but have accessible OBD-I codes. Check the underhood emissions sticker to confirm, and if yours is OBD-I, the codes are accessed by bridging terminals 5 and 6. If your vehicle is OBD-II, a scan tool or computer is required to access the codes.
All OBDII codes follow this principle layout.P0300They are a 5 character format with the first being a letter and the next 4 being numbers.There are 4 different letter codes.
The first number determines if it is a Manufacturer code or a 'standard' OBDII code. If the first number is "0" it's a Standard code and applies to every OBDII vehicle on the road. If the number is "1" or even "2" then it's a Manufacture specific code. The second number determines the system affected.
The last 2 numbers are the specific fault.
There are allot of Acronyms used in OBDII systems.If I told you that you had a DPFE sensor failure you would just look at me like I was speaking another language! Here is a list of commonly referred to terms:
So now that you know more about OBDII here are some known issues!
A very common code to get is P0420 or P0421.These refer to the converter. Many times after testing these systems no issue can be found with the converters or the related HO2S sensor. This doesn't mean swap the converter or the sensor. If you have this code and you can't find any obvious problems (like a gutted/missing cat or missing or damaged sensor/wire) and the vehicle has no drivability problems, there may not be a problem!! I can already see the eyebrows going up!! There are a few reported cases where the software in the PCM has too narrow a range. These are usually noted in TSB's and typically can be performed at a local dealership at no cost to you. I can also hear 'but my warranty is out!' Most Catalysts systems have a Federally Mandated 8 year 80,000-mile warranty. This is a fact that the dealership doesn't want you to know but...if your vehicle has a P0420 or P0421 code before 80,000 miles or 8 years the dealership can be liable for replacement or repair. 99% of the time it takes a matter of minutes for this EEPROM FLASH and it turns off the MIL light immediately.
Another Common issue is O2 codes.If you have a vehicle that has low or no output codes for any O2 sensor but when tested the O2 seems fine, Change the O2. I have had this problem before. A car with O2 no output codes came in but when running a 'live' scan and 10 miles worth of drive testing showed no problems. The O2 was switching within normal parameters and measured emissions were below the standard. I scratched my head on this one for a while. I would clear it and the customer would drive for days but it would always come back. Finally after a few weeks I got the car for 3 days. I must have put over 100 miles on it with the scanner when just for a few min the sensor just shut down like a windows freeze. Nothing for about 5 or 6 miles then right back to normal. When the sensor was changed the light went off and has not returned for that code again. That was 3 years ago!
OHH boy the IAC and EGR codes!!GM IAC's and EGR's have a pattern failure. These are common failures before the expected or intended service interval. 99% of these failures are due to foreign debris in their pintal valves. EGR valves that seem to have no obvious signs of being faulty but continuously give EGR Low Flow codes are usually clogged passages in the valve or manifold or sticking pintal valves. There are TSB's about The EGR codes and even some EEPROM flashes for this problem. Generally cleaning these at the first sign of the problem will solve the issue. If they are let go they end up wearing the mechanisms inside and begin to stick regardless of how clean they are. IAC's are very sensitive things too. When cleaning them don't use hard brushes on the pintal and never stick anything in the throttle body orifice! Use throttle body cleaning spray instead. Also EGR flow excessive codes can sometimes be linked to a bad converter. It is possible to get EGR excessive codes and NO P0420 or P0421 codes. Since the rear HO2S only measures one of the 3 gasses produced it may not pick up the bad converter but the converter is part of the EGR system too. When you get a low/high flow it is referring to the entire system and not just the EGR valve. Unless you get a EGR specific code like EGR Pintal valve position, you can't rule out the rest of the EGR system and since some of these valves are over 300$ that can be a costly mistake!!!
Cylinder misfire!!There have been issues in the past with early OBDII systems being overly sensitive to misfire. While this was mostly Ford/Mazda systems it still applies to all vehicles. If you have a cylinder misfire that just won't go away IE P0303 (cylinder 3 misfire) and you have checked every single thing you or your buddies can think of but this code just won't go away then read on! The crankshaft position sensor is what detects misfire. It detects the cranks acceleration rate. When the rate is erratic or slightly abnormal it triggers a misfire. By interpreting where the crank was in the rotation and where the camshaft was at that instant it can determine what cylinder is misfiring! When more than one cylinder is misfiring at the same time or in rapid succession it will give a random multiple cylinder misfire or P0300. In some early systems with manual transmissions and automatics (when the converter is locked) the change in crank rotations caused by going over rough roads or train tracks caused misfire codes. A TSB can usually be found on this and an EEPROM flash can be performed to fix this problem.
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